Nobody Drives in LA — Exploring the Planned Course of the Metro Purple Line Extension

Nobody Drives in LA

With bicycles, buses, ferries, planes, rideshares, sidewalks, subways, taxis, and trains at Angelenos’ disposal, why would any sane person choose car-dependency? Nobody Drives in LA celebrates sense and sensibility in transportation.

*****

The prospect of more rail transit excites me greatly, and so far I’ve explored the future courses of the Expo, Gold, and Crenshaw lines. While I’ve long looked forward to the extension of the subway to the Westside, its slow pace has more than anything left me frustrated. However, as no planned local rail line has enflamed more passions than the appropriately-named Purple Line, I decided to set my sights on the more distant future and explore its planned course.

Pendersleigh & Sons Cartography's map of the Purple Line Extension
Pendersleigh & Sons Cartography‘s map of the Purple Line Extension

Although it’s possible (and hoped by many) that construction of the Purple Line Extension will be completed ahead of schedule, the subway is currently expected to reach the Westside VA in 2035. When we look at the timeline for light rail projects, we imagine a world similar to the one we live in now, albeit with improved public transit. On the other hand when we imagine 2035, most of us imagine a far different world — 2035, tellingly, is the setting for both Twelve Monkeys and I, Robot. Will we even live to see the subway reach the sea?

Assuming that by 2035 rising sea levels haven’t transformed the Gold Line into the “subway to the sea” or that some sort of apocalypse hasn’t erased everything we know that currently exists along its path, I decided to gather up my patience and explore the Purple Line’s planned course to get an idea of some of the attractions that will hopefully remain and be accessible by train.

In the meantime, hopefully this guide will encourage people to not wait for 2035 to get out. After all, the 720 bus travels almost the same path as the Purple Line will — albeit above-ground — and connects downtown and the ocean in about 50 minutes. If your enthusiasm for the so-called “subway to the sea” more reflects your desire to take a train to a nearby beach than check out the attractions along Wilshire Boulevard, then please note that the Blue Line takes passengers .8 kilometers from beachfront San Pedro Bay, Metrolink‘s Orange County and Inland Empire/Orange County lines practically drop riders off in the waters off San Clemente and Oceanside, and the Expo Line will do the same to the Santa Monica Bay in 2015. Furthermore, for those willing and able to walk 4.5 (or catch a connecting bus), there are the South Bay stations of the Green Line. If you’re willing to take a bus, in fact, you have options.

Construction of Los Angeles’ current subway system began in 1986 (an earlier subway was built by Pacific Electric Railway between 1924 and 1925). Service to the first stations began in 1993 as the Red Line. The branch that connects Downtown to Koreatown opened in 1996, and was rechristened the Purple Line in 2006. Since 2000 there has been no further subway construction. As of June 2013, it had a daily average ridership of 158,429 people (no data is available for what percentage of those on the Purple Line were confused tourists trying to find the not-in-Hollywood Universal Studios Hollywood).

The Purple and Red Lines both stop at Union Station, Civic Center, 7th Street/Metro, Westlake/MacArthur Park, and Wilshire/Vermont stations before their paths separate. The Red Line continues north to the San Fernando Valley (where tourists will find Universal Studios), whereas a short, vestigial section of the Purple Line nicknamed “the Tail” continues west, stopping at Wilshire/Normandie Station and finally, at Wilshire/Western.

The fact that the Purple Line ends where it does is usually blamed on isolationist NIMBYs and their political allies, although it faced additional obstacles from the decidedly pro-transit Bus Riders Union, preservationists, prehistoric fossils, seeping methane, earthquake faults, and more. It seems to me as if those hurdles could more easily be leapt over by light rail rather than tunneled beneath by subway, but Metro is going with the latter.

In the rail race to the Westside, the Expo Line will likely precede the Purple Line by 20 years. As a light rail train it will offer riders a view, sense of connectedness to the communities through which it will pass, fresh air, and phone reception. When the Purple Line finally reaches the VA, it will offer a faster trip (connecting Downtown Los Angeles and Westwood in 25 minutes) and will stop 6.1 kilometers from the coast. Unable to burrow along its path, I instead opted to walk along surface streets for my exploration.

Wilshire-Western
Current end of the Purple Line

PHASE I: 2014 – 2023

At 6.3 kilometers, Phase I of the Purple Line Extension is the longest stretch and construction is set to begin in 2014 and end in 2023. It will connect the train’s current western terminus and Beverly Hills.
PARK MILE

Park Mile -- Honmichi Los Angeles Shutchosho
Park Mile — Honmichi Los Angeles Shutchosho
1150835_10151804189064643_1310000444_n
Wilshire/Western Station – The Romanesque Wilshire United Methodist Church, built by Allison & Allison in 1925. I helped set up a wedding here around 2007.

Currently the Purple Line ends near Koreatown’s western edge. West of the bustling neighborhood, things quickly thin out in a stretch of Wilshire Boulevard known as Park Mile. In contrast to its neighbors on either end, Park Mile passes through low-density/low-profile neighborhoods like Windsor Square, Hancock Park, Brookside, Windsor Village, Sycamore Square, and the gated community of Fremont Place. There are a few obvious attractions, such as the Wilshire Ebell Theatre, but most subway travelers will find more of interest elsewhere.

Park Mile -- Scottish Rite Temple
Park Mile — Scottish Rite Temple
Park Mile - Wilshire Ebell Theatre
Park Mile – Wilshire Ebell Theatre

WILSHIRE/LA BREA STATION

Wilshire/La Brea Station will be constructed at the northwest corner of the intersection, where the Metro Customer Service Center is located (in a building that opened in 1949 as Tilford’s restaurant). This marks the eastern end of Miracle Mile, developed as a shopping district to rival downtown Los Angeles, but now known more for its museums and Art Deco architecture.

Wilshire-La Brea - Art Deco buildings
Wilshire-La Brea – Art Deco buildings
555523_10151804189269643_1329725791_n
Wilshire/La Brea Station – built in 1949 as Tilford’s and designed by architect Welton Becket. It became the Metro Customer Center in the 1980s, in preparation for the subway.

In the immediate vicinity of the future station, there are several fine Art Deco buildings, such as the old Four Star Theatre, the Deco Building — a black and gold building designed by the same firm behind the Richfield Tower — and the E. Clem Wilson Building which, upon its construction in 1929, was tallest commercial building in the city. A Streamline Moderne Firestone service station built in 1937 is located just a little to the south. Further west on Miracle Mile, there are even more Deco gems — most of them formerly home to long-defunct department stores. The area is also home to the Korean Cultural Center, the El Rey Theatre, and Yuko Kitchen — all very much worth a visit.

Wilshire-La Brea - Dominguez-Wilshire Building (1930)
Wilshire-La Brea – Dominguez-Wilshire Building (1930)
1186801_10151804189364643_663817278_n
Wilshire/La Brea Station – Looking down the Miracle Mile at skyscrapers from a range of decades.
Wilshire-La Brea - El Rey and KACC
Wilshire-La Brea – El Rey and KACC

WILSHIRE/FAIRFAX STATION

Wilshire-Fairfax - Johnnie's and LACMA West
Wilshire-Fairfax – Johnnie’s and LACMA West
1173796_10151804189609643_2007285097_n
Wilshire/Fairfax Station – George C. Page Museum, opened to the public in 1977.
1146692_10151804189669643_34547165_n
Wilshire/Fairfax Station – The Craft and Folk Art Musuem (who’ve featured my maps on their brochures) — currently yard-bombed. It began in 1975 and is, in many ways, the successor to The Egg and The Eye Gallery and Restaurant, which opened in 1965 in the same building.

The intersection of Wilshire and Fairfax will, hopefully, by the time of the subway’s construction, be designated Biggie Smalls Square, or something along those lines as this is the intersection where the rapper was killed in 1997 after attending a function at the Petersen Automotive Museum, one of the institutions of this section of Wilshire, known as Museum Row. Other nearby museums include Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), the Craft and Folk Art Museum, the George C. Page Museum, Zimmer Children’s Museum, and the A+D Museum of Architecture and Design. Unfortunately the latter institution — whose current exhibition is “Never Built” — will be displaced by the slowly-built subway.

1170752_10151804189714643_1441670735_n
Wilshire/Fairfax Station – The La Brea Tar Pits
999121_10151804189789643_6274087_n
Wilshire/Fairfax Station – LACMA (Los Angeles County Museum of Art), which moved to its current location from Exposition Park in South Los Angeles in 1965.
Wilshire-Faifax - rocks with plaques
Wilshire-Faifax – rocks with plaques

East of the station on Wilshire are the famous La Brea Tar Pits, the Goethe Institut, Wilshire Courtyard (as seen on Melrose Place), and behind it, a park called Wilshire Green, which includes a terrapin pond. West along Wilshire, between the Beverly Grove neighborhood to the north and Carthay Circle to the south, is a stretch or road dominated by medical offices, although there are a couple of large rocks whose plaques make clear that their presence in the area pre-dates the currently headline-hogging Levitated Mass by several decades.

Wilshire-Fairfax - Wilshire Green
Wilshire-Fairfax – Wilshire Green
1091860_10151804189949643_1153225387_n
Wilshire/Fairfax Station – Petersen Automotive Museum, which opened in 1994. From 1962-1965 it was home to a US branch of Seibu Department Stores.

A couple of blocks south of the future station is the tiniest of Los Angeles’s ethnic enclaves, Little Ethiopia. Just over a kilometer to the north is the Original Farmers Market, the Fairfax Village district (home to the Cinefamily‘s Silent Movie Theatre), Pan Pacific Park, and the Grove.

1185997_10151804190014643_110895430_n
Wilshire/Fairfax Station – the medical buildings of Beverly Grove and Carthay Circle.

WILSHIRE/LA CIENEGA STATION

1097942_10151804190089643_1178961654_n
Wilshire/La Cienega Station – A Porsche dealership that was, I’m guessing, a service station in the past. Anyone know? 8245 Wilshire Boulevard
1012493_10151804190249643_1463138422_n
Wilshire/La Cienega Station – Erwin Binder’s 1984 sculpture, “The First Experience.” Not sure what first experience it’s depicting but it should be noted that Madonna’s “Like a Virgin” was released the same year.

When completed, Wilshire/La Cienega Station will be the first train station in Beverly Hills since the demolition of old Southern Pacific and Pacific Electric depot, which stood at the corner of Canon Drive and Santa Monica Boulevard.

Wilshire-La Cienega - Fine Arts Theatre
Wilshire-La Cienega – Fine Arts Theatre
1170837_10151804190339643_51054832_n
Wilshire/La Cienega Station – Opened as the Elite Theatre in around 1937 and designed by architect Wilfred B. Verity. Renamed the Music Hall Theatre in 1948.

Despite the city’s reputation for wealth and exclusivity, the area around the future station offers visitors little more than the departed glamor of aging movie theaters and plastic surgery clinics. The nearby theaters of note include the Fine Arts Theatre (opened in 1937), the Music Hall Theatre (also opened in 1937), the Saban Theatre (opened in 1931), and the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences Samuel Goldwyn Theatre. In front of the old Great Western Bank Tower there’s also a large bronze statue of actor John Wayne.

Wilshire-La Cienga - building from 1963-thumb-600x447-58736
Wilshire-La Cienega – building from 1963
Wilshire-La Cienega - John Wayne-thumb-600x447-58730
Wilshire-La Cienega – John Wayne

PHASE II: 2019 – 2026

Construction of approximately 4 kilometer Phase II of the Purple Line Extension is scheduled to take place between 2019 and 2026. If all goes according to plan, this will be the only section of the subway that diverts from its course beneath Wilshire Boulevard by tunneling under a residential section of Beverly Hills including, controversially, Beverly Hills High School.

WILSHIRE/RODEO STATION

1185558_10151804190379643_446014279_n
Wilshire/Rodeo Station – Another interesting building constructed in 1964.
1157436_10151804190939643_1899342675_n
Wilshire/Rodeo Station – Glendale Federal Building – Built by Glendale Federal Savings and Loan in 1971 and including beautiful stained class at the top that you don’t really get a sense of here

Wilshire/Rodeo Station will be constructed near Beverly Hills’ “Golden Triangle,” a touristy neighborhood sadly deprived of passenger rail since the Beverly Hills Line of the Pacific Electric Railway ended local service in 1954.

Wilshire-Rodeo - Via Rodeo
Wilshire-Rodeo – Via Rodeo
1097988_10151804191289643_835041004_n
Wilshire/Rodeo Station – The Beverly Wilshire Hotel, constructed by Walter G. McCarty on the site of the former Beverly Hills Speedway in 1928 as the Beverly Wilshire Apartment Hotel. Designed by Walker & Eisen.

Near the future station is Via Rodeo, a kitschy, cobblestone-paved shopping street whose European pretensions suggest that it took its inspiration from Las Vegas, Downtown Disney, or maybe Huntington Beach‘s Old World Village. After the train station’s construction, the only thing missing will be a water fountain show. Although sold as an area dominated by the rich and famous, the majority of visitors seem to be tourists from China. Mandarin, Farsi, and honking car horns all seem to vie for status as the area’s lingua franca.

1150955_10151804191479643_1998932773_n
Wilshire/Rodeo Station – The entrance to Via Rodeo. This was my first time there and it totally reminds me of the (admittedly much newer) Grove and Americana. All that’s missing is a trolley — or better yet, subway!
Wilshire-Rodeo - Millard Sheets-designed bank
Wilshire-Rodeo – Millard Sheets-designed bank

There are also numerous banks in the area, the most interesting of which is a Chase Bank that opened in 1953 as Beverly Hills Home Savings, and was the first such institution designed by Millard Sheets. Sterling Plaza, built in 1929, and the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, built in 1929, are two other lovely icons of a bygone era.

Wilshire-Rodeo - 720 bus and Sterling Plaza (1929)
Wilshire-Rodeo – 720 bus and Sterling Plaza (1929)

CENTURY CITY STATION

entury City - Roxbury Park lawn bowling and croquet
Century City – Roxbury Park lawn bowling and croquet
972166_10151804192814643_122766768_n
Century City Station – Century Park and the Century City skyline

Century City Station will be built near the intersection of Constellation Boulevard and Avenue of the Stars. Century City is named after 20th Century Fox and I originally assumed that “the Stars” was a reference to the studio’s stable of actors. However, upon exploring the neighborhood and discovering futuristic and cosmically-named streets like Solar Way and Constellation Boulevard, I now think that the roadway’s aspirational associations are more interstellar than celluloid. In other words, the idea is less Hollywood Walk of Fame in Hollywood, more Modern Manor Trailer Court.

Century City - The Century (2009) and  Gwynn Murrill sculpture
Century City – The Century (2009) and Gwynn Murrill sculpture
545225_10151804192574643_1955175505_n
Century City Station – Some event taking place at Craft. Seems to have something to do with the nearby Annenberg Space for Photography.

Although it feels rather like a 3-D rendering of a downtown more than an actual city center, there is charm to the unified metropolitan aesthetic that extends from the slightly bland, shiny, megalithic luxury skyscrapers, all the way down to the slightly bland, shiny, luxury cars that pass between.

Century City - CAA and Century Park
Century City – CAA and Century Park
601424_10151804192359643_913686417_n
Century City Station – Tall buildings make me dizzy.

The nearby Annenberg Space for Photography often exhibits black and white photography, in keeping with the neighborhood’s neutral palette. It’s located on the edge of Century Park, a pleasant park nestled in the heart of a theme-park metropolis. Nearby to the east, in Beverly Hills, is Roxbury Memorial Park, a space that has lawn bowling and croquet lawn. A bit to the northwest is Westfield Century City Mall, which opened in 1964 as “Century Square Shopping Center.”

969480_10151804191994643_1840292129_n
Century City Station – There’s oil drilling on the Beverly Hills High School campus (the Venoco rig is covered by flowers). There are nearby signs warning of detectable amounts of chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and that sort of thing but the lease provides the school with $700,000 – $1,000,000 dollars in revenue each year. This is the campus that some concerned Beverly Hills residents don’t want the subway to tunnel under supposedly out of fears of the students’ well-being.
1000252_10151804192124643_2024303620_n
Century City Station – Inside the Westfield Century City Mall. It opened in 1964 as “Century Square Shopping Center.” In the future, I predict it will be re-named “The Shops at Century City.”

PHASE III

Construction of Phase III of the Purple Line Extension is planned to take place between 2027 and 2035. The roughly 4 kilometer stretch of train will traverse the Los Angeles neighborhood of Westwood, and include two subway stations.

WESTWOOD/UCLA STATION

1150327_10151804193099643_2064617266_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – The Armand Hammer Museum of Art and Culture Center at UCLA, established in 1990 and designed by architect Edward Larrabee Barnes.
Westwood-UCLA - Millionaire Mile aka Golden Mile
Westwood-UCLA – Millionaire Mile aka Golden Mile
972334_10151804193324643_1089671177_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – The streamline moderne Bruin Theatre, designed by S. Charles Lees, opened in 1937. Regency Theatres took over operations in 2010.
1175291_10151804193279643_315245294_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – The Spanish-revival Village Theater in Westwood opened in 1931, designed by Percy Parke Lewis. Taken over by Regency Theatres in 2010.

The Purple Line will return to Wilshire after diverting away from the Golden Mile/Millionaire Mile section of Westwood’s Wilshire Corridor. The station will be built at the intersection of Wilshire and Westwood Boulevard, near the Hammer Museum, Westwood Park, the Los Angeles National CemeteryTaiwan Academy in Los Angeles, and the Wilshire Federal Building — a site popular with protestors.

1005384_10151804193349643_1097593965_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – The late modernist Wilshire Federal Building, designed by Charles Luckman Associates and built in 1969. This is where the protests happen 🙂
Westwood-UCLA - Crest Theatre (1940)
Westwood-UCLA – Crest Theatre (1940)
1185567_10151804192999643_1281162612_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – Right to left: Murdock Plaza, UCLA Wilshire Center, The Tower, and the Helio Building. Sort of Westwood’s Downtown, yeah?
1176392_10151804193134643_225680719_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – Looking east down Wilshire at Westwood’s so-called Millionaire Mile (aka Golden Mile aka the Wilshire Corridor) — a stretch of residential high-rise condos.

Just north of the future station is Westwood Village, an area that’s home to several theaters of note, including Bruin Theatre, Improv Space, the Regent Theatre, and Village Theatre. A bit further north of all that is the UCLA campus, home to several attractions, including the Freud Theater, Geffen Playhouse, Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Center, UCLA Planetarium, the Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden, Fowler Museum, Royce Hall, and more.

Westwood-UCLA - Tehrangeles
Westwood-UCLA – Tehrangeles
1174729_10151804192964643_899413388_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – (Right to left on the horizon) Oppenheimer Tower, Murdock Plaza, UCLA Wilshire Center, The Tower, and the Helio Building.
1170874_10151804193174643_1599185296_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – The Vacant Westwood Building, built in 1929 by Allison & Allison for the Janss Corporation, creators of Westwood Village, to use as their offices.
1150933_10151804193379643_1198790979_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – The marble Spanish-American War Memorial — sculpted by Roger Noble Burnham and erected 1950 by United Spanish War Veterans in front of Los Angeles National Cemetery — was destroyed by an earthquake in 1971. It was replaced by this plaster replica in 1973.

A little south of the station is an area dense with, but not limited to, Persian businesses and restaurants, known informally as Tehrangeles (or less commonly, “Little Persia”). Also of possible interest and located nearby are the Crest Theatre — which currently screens ballet and opera films — and Los Angeles Temple — at one time the largest temple of the LDS.

1174849_10151804192864643_532871541_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – Cottagey building at 10681 Santa Monica Blvd, built in 1935. Currently home to Cafe Chez Marie, a French-Moroccan-American restaurant.
1185508_10151804192889643_794673029_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – Los Angeles Temple – the second largest LDS temple. Building took place between 1952 and 1956. The modernist structure was designed by Edward O. Anderson
1013284_10151804193214643_642111937_n
Westwood/UCLA Station – – Landmark’s Regent Theatre (advertising a screening of, among other films, Tommy Wiseau’s “The Room), built in 1966 and operated by Landmark since 2002.

1157511_10151804193464643_1145074419_n

WESTWOOD/VA HOSPITAL STATION

Westwood-VA Hospital - Wadsworth Chapel (1900)
Westwood-VA Hospital – Wadsworth Chapel (1900)

The Westwood/VA Hospital Station is set to be constructed at in intersection of Wilshire and Bonsall Avenue, on the campus of VA West Los Angeles Healthcare Center. The VA campus is home to the Los Angeles National Veterans Park and the VA’s Japanese Garden, as well as Wadsworth Chapel (the oldest building on Wilshire) and a streetcar depot (from the old Santa Monica Air Line), both built in 1900. The grounds are also home to the Brentwood and Wadsworth theatres — two performing arts venues (the latter also sometimes screens films). Less than a mile away, over on Santa Monica Boulevard, are two more movie theaters of note: Laemmle’s Royal Theatre and the Landmark Nuart Theatre. Just a bit further south is the neighborhood of Little Osaka — the Westside’s Japantown.

Westwood-VA Hospital - Brentwood and Sawtelle
Westwood-VA Hospital – Brentwood and Sawtelle

Heading west from the VA grounds, another downtown-like center comprised of dark, shiny towers rises up on the border of Brentwood and unincorporated Sawtelle. The 720 continues on down the road until it arrives ocean-side, but any further subway plans are little more than a dream as the “subway to the sea” will, for many years, more truly be a “subway to the VA” or, at best, “subway toward the sea.”

*****

Eric Brightwell is an adventurer, writer, rambler, explorer, cartographer, and guerrilla gardener who is always seeking writing, speaking, traveling, and art opportunities — or salaried work. He is not interested in writing advertorials, clickbait, listicles, or other 21st century variations of spam. Brightwell’s written work has appeared in AmoeblogdiaCRITICS, and KCET Departures. His work has been featured by the American Institute of Architects, the Architecture & Design Museum, the Craft & Folk Art MuseumForm Follows FunctionLos Angeles County StoreSkid Row Housing Trust, and 1650 Gallery. Brightwell has been featured in the Los Angeles TimesHuffington PostLos Angeles MagazineLAistEastsider LABoing BoingLos Angeles, I’m Yours, and on Notebook on Cities and Culture. He has been a guest speaker on KCRW‘s Which Way, LA? and at Emerson College. Art prints of his maps are available from 1650 Gallery and on other products from Cal31. He is currently writing a book about Los Angeles and you can follow him on FacebookInstagram, and Twitter.

Click here to offer financial support and thank you!

One thought on “Nobody Drives in LA — Exploring the Planned Course of the Metro Purple Line Extension

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s