Introduction to Subcultural Anthropology: Paninaro

On this day (22 September), 1986, the Pet Shop Boys released the single “Suburbia” b/w “Paninaro,” which introduced an Italian subculture to the wider world. It was certainly my introduction.

Paninari (the plural of Paninaro) were an Italian youth subculture in the 1980s. Their name came from the word “panino,” Italian for “bread.” La Stampa branded them that due to the fact that their original, preferred hang-out was the Al Panino, a sandwich joint in in Milan‘s Via Agnello, where they first congregated in 1983.

In 1985 the now defunct Burghy, an Italian chain specializing in American fast food, opened a location on Piazza San Babila, that became their home base.

Though often characterized as apolitical, the group’s fascination with Reagan‘s US, Thatcher‘s England, conspicuous consumption, and vapid hedonism was a sort of political statement in and of itself. They were also viewed as being somewhat right wing after first gaining media attention for their occasional run-ins with young Communists and otherLeftists. On the other hand, they weren’t exactly traditional Fascists, however, as this cult of wealthy kids had a reputation for acceptance of gays — which seems to be particularly reflected by their musical preferences.

The painaro’s fastidious style was very brand-specific. They favored Timberland or Durango boots, Sebagodeck shoes, Converse All-Stars or Vans for footwear — worn over Burlington or argyle socks. Their trousers of choice were rolled-up Armani or Levi’s jeans worn with large-buckeled El Charro belts — worn over  Naj-Oleari underwear. Best Company sweatshirts, Les Copains sweaters, or Lacoste or Mistral shirts were worn under Moncler dolomite coats or Schott leather jackets. Accessories included boldly-colored Invictabackpacks, Ray-Ban sunglasses. Other popular brands included  Chevignon, Chipie, Coveri, CP Company, Fiorucci, Henri Lloyd, Moschino,  Naf Naf, Stone Island, and Versace. It should come as no surprise that Paninari were influences on Casuals… and I’m pretty sure that I bought my sister a Naf Naf shirt in ’89.

  

In 1985, a Paninaro game called Il Paninaro was created for the Commodore 64. You can download it here, and soon you’ll be riding German motorcycles and ordering burgers. The goal is to became a “Gallo,” the equivalent of a Mod Face.

  

As with the best fashion-minded subcultures, they were eventually served by their own magainzes, in their case, Paninaro, Preppy, and Wild Boys. The subculture peaked in popularity in 1987, when an issue ofPaninaro sold over 100,000 issues — reportedly setting a new record for an Italian magazine. Another sign that they’d made it was that they were the subject of parody, in their case by Enzo Braschi on the Italia 1 series, Drive-In (1983-1988).

In 2005, the former Paninaro re-convened in Milan to celebrate their 20th anniversary.

While I may not share their devotion to brands or love of fast food, I think a Paninaro night would be a refreshing alternative to the same-ish-different-DJ mix of 60s/Psych/Mod/Freakbeat that has crushed my desire to ever go to local clubs. Check out the following classici del paninari.

Falco – Der Kommissar

Duran Duran – Wild Boys

Michael Cretu – Samurai 

Wham! – The Edge of Heaven 

Cameo – Word Up

MC Miker G & DJ Sven – Holiday Rap

Bronski Beat – C’mon! C’mon!

Pet Shop Boys – It’s a Sin